Motorcraft spark plugs catalog

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So I have a redtop SR and I’ve done full bolts on with bigger turbo and injectors (Tomei Arms MX8270, 550cc injectors) I got a RS enthalpy tune @ 16psi and I’ve checked all my spark plugs they are NGK heat range 7 gapped at .34. I’ve also checked my intercooler system to see if there was any leaks none that I found. I capped off my bov and discounted my vacuum line that goes from the throttle body to the BOV and that sort of help idle it’ll hold idle after a little could it be that my blitz BOV is leaking ? Brand new z32 maf as well kind of stumped on this so open to suggestions on things to check or maybe it is the BOV not sure just don’t want to buy a new one and it’s not the problem

So I sold two SR430's to a customer back in late March.
One came back a few days later with a hard to start complaint. The primer bulb had no fuel in it, pressing it would not get any fuel. I replaced the primer, it fixed the problem. That was in early april.
Yesterday this machine comes back again. No information on what is wrong. I tried it, and it started on the first pull. I removed the spark plug anyway just to take a peek and the electrode was carbon fouled. It was bad enough that I'm quite surprised that it started at all.
I cleaned the plug. I took the carburetor off and looked inside, I found nothing wrong. The fuel lines are clear and appear to flow just fine.
I took it outside and ran it for 15 minutes at idle and at speed. It never missed a beat.
I told the customer I believe it was a fouled plug that was the root problem.
He told me since this is the 2nd time he's had to bring it in that he wants a -new machine-.
I told him spark plugs are not warrantied and are a wear item and that sometimes plugs get a carbon whisker, it happens.
Should this guy be entitled to a new machine?

As the title states, thinking of buying a 2014 Civic EX in Southern California for $8.8k Including details below.

• 160k miles
• No accidents, carfax was shared
• Seller is selling to upgrade to a new vehicle
• Just replaced with new spark plugs, transmission fluid, wheel axles, and tires.
• Some cosmetic damage on bumpers and right back door, but not very noticeable from picture

Would have preferred something with less mileage, but it seems like a good deal, am I missing anything?

Looking at an ad currently, a Honda Civic with almost 300k for 3500. Also says: “4 cylinder D17 motor had a bunch of work done in last 40k -timing belt /water pump -head work done, valves springs etc -new spark plugs -fresh oil change filter -Fresh coolant -Tires and breaks 80% -new afr O2 And aftermarket deck”
Is this a good deal and are there any concerns/other advice. I know next to nothing about cars so sorry I’m advance if these are dumb questions.

I just bought a used 2020 mustang Ecoboost premium with 52.5k miles on it. It doesn't look like they ever changed the spark plugs according to the car fax and it was a rental vehicle. I'm thinking about getting spark plugs, an oil catch can and maybe an intercooler down the line as I read that those are the things that will extend the life of the car. However I don't know if the 2018+ mustangs still had the spark plug issue so I'm asking is it still necessary for these years, which plugs should I get and how much did you pay for installation services? Also recommendations for oil catch cans and pricing would be greatly appreciated as well.

My 92k mile 2002 is going to a private shop next week for spark plugs. First time according to existing records. Mechanic says it’s a good time to replace ignition coils at same time. He says the coils will eventually fail one by one.
Car runs fine. I was going to wait until I hit 120k miles in about 4 years to replace the ignition coils. But his recommendation gave me pause. What would you do?
It’s basically another thousand dollar cost given how expensive the oem coils are

Long story short, motor would crank no start, I replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injectors, battery, distributor, alternator, spark plugs, fluids, the whole nine yards, and still wouldn't start. Was told by a shop it was the engine harness, and life got the best of me and I let it sit for a year. I got a new job and work 50 hour weeks so I didn't have the time to work on it, and still don't.
Will a shop replace the engine harness or even attempt to work on it if it's been sitting for a year? I have an extra harness ready to be put in I had ordered from Monotech.

2000 CRV 161,000 on the odo. We've been on a road trip and already put roughly 4,000 miles on the car and have broken down a handful of times. First there were a few minor breakdowns probably from driving so much (800-1,000 miles in a single day.) After that it was the distributor, spark wires, and spark plugs gave us problems. We've done a good bit of off roading, driving on dirt roads, flying down washboard roads in the desert, and just a TON of highway driving. We thought we were finally in the clear and than the car starts vibrating than boom drive shaft blows. The carrier bearing just blew out on us and ripped the drive shaft apart.
We're waiting on a part to come in the mail in the next couple days so we can install it ourselves but we figured we could do some more preventative maintenance while we're here. We essentially need a CHECKLIST of things that could go wrong so we can cross reference the maintenance records and try to get some of the most pressing things done.
We're all up to date on standard maintenance, timing belt, oil change, coolant, spark plugs, and some other stuff, but in case we're missing anything, some common failure points would be good to hear about.
And yes we took of the drive shaft and are driving around in FWD for the time being.
TLDR: Brokedown a couple times stranded until a park comes, trying to do preventative maintenance.

Hi. I have a 1985 Celica GT-S Coupe 144,xxx manual transmission (Not sure if that matters) that I recently bought and been trying to get to run. I finally got it to turn on but it has a very loud knocking noise. It still turns on and idles quietly and the knocking only starts when it goes up in rpms. I redid my head cover gasket and I also have done injectors, new spark plugs, cables, vacuum lines, cap and rotor, EGR delete kit. thermostat and just replaced most of the parts. but i cant figure out the knocking. There is also a few flakes in the oil. but I've been told a very small amount is normal in engine wear. some people say it just needs a valve adjustment, others say it needs a hear rebuild and other say the engine is toast. I can provide videos and images if needed. thank you.

Hey guys, just having a weird issue with my 2019 duke 390. Every once and a while, seemingly randomly, the engine seems to misfire. There's a jerk, power loss for a second, and the check engine light comes on very briefly. And then everything is back to normal. Was wondering if anyone's experience anything similar or has any ideas as to what this could be.
I ordered a new spark plug and am changing the oil today, so hopefully that fixes it.

Yeah I don't really even know where to start with this. Not do I really know what the heck to do.
There was a BOSS AutoSkills class at the Fort Bliss Auto craft shop for learning how to Tune-Up your whip. I'm a Gen-Z soft handed avocado toast eater so of course I know nothing about cars. So I did the class.
The benefit was that three soldiers cars would be used for the class and would get free spark plug replacement as a result. My car was one of the lucky three. I didn't even really know what a spark plug so I was happy to learn and get that free replacement.
Sent the mechanic my vehicle make, model, trim, and VIN number. He took the vin number and ordered the spark plugs for my car. We did the class, I learned enough where I could replace my own plugs from memory 2 months later when my car suddenly broke down.
I drive a 2019 Hyundai Kona 1.6L limited. That's a turbo engine mom-mobile. Saturday going up a mountain I heard a weird noise and suddenly my check engine light flashing. Pull the car over and guess it's the plugs. I leave the car over night and come back the next day with new plugs and tools.
I pull out the first one and see this. "Well that's not good"
I replace the plugs and the engine still isn't working right. I limp the car back to my barracks. Next day I spent the entire morning taking the new ones out, cleaning the metal filament out of the plug hole and putting the original plugs (don't know why I still had them but thankfully I did) back in. Engine still doesn't work.
That's when I call up the autoshop and tell them what happened. I limp the car the car over and the mechanic that did the class helps me out immensely trying to figure out what the issue is. At first we thought the ignition coils were bad. He orders new ones and it still doesn't fix it.
I spend the entire week researching and learn the spark plugs he put in are absolutely not rated for my engine. Autozone just has them listed as "fits."
When we are trying to figure this out he orders the exact correct spark plugs, which are a very specific type of NGK Iridium plugs that are the only ones that work for my car. *They get delivered in like an hour.* Cylinder 1 still doesn't work.
THE FUCK UP:
Turns out before the class, they took my VIN number and popped it into AutoZone. The NGK plugs (the only correct one) were listed at the top but were "special order" and 5$ more expensive. So instead they just went with the second option. German BOSCH plugs that AutoZone showed as an option that "fits" when you searched my car that were cheaper. They put those in and sent me on my way.
Turns out after a quick google, they are not rated for the Hyundai turbo engine at all, and have a history of detonating in Hyundai's. Which is exactly what happened. That plug exploded in my car and destroyed a cylinder and the threads, potentially totalling my engine entirely.
*EVEN BETTER* Hyundai specifically states that using Bosch spark plugs in their cars voids your warranty. So I cant take my brand new car to their dealership to have it fixed under warranty. My insurance won't cover it either.
So now I have to file a claim against them. I can't even leave the car in the shop for the months it would take because I'm deploying in july. The mechanic who made the mistake is genuinely a really nice guy. Took tons of time working with me to try and troubleshoot the issue all week. I'd like for him not to get in trouble. I'd also like to not have to scrap my 32,000 new car just because I participated in what is seeming to be the most expensive free class in history.
They also tried to take back the newest correct plugs because the boss said I'd have to pay for them, and send me off with the same damn plugs that exploded. I can't even get my car out of the parking lot of the autoshop.

Only 60k miles. I don’t drive much. Religious about maintenance. Almost always took to dealer save for a couple of random oil changes.
Engine died on freeway. Blew cylinder one. Mechanic thought it was a spark plug until he ran diagnostic. Said engine is toast. Towed to Honda. They agreed.
Instead of paying $7k to fix plus a needed brake job I got a semi-shitty deal on an HRV.
Found a couple of other people online who had the same issue. I’ve read that 2010 forward the quality goes down.
Needless to say I am very disappointed. Interested to hear from anyone who may have had similar issues. I feel like Honda should give me a free extended warranty (the one they tried to sell to me for $2500 as I was paying). Or something.
It’s just not right. The best the mechanics could say is it was just bad luck.
This all happened last week. It’s just not sitting right with me.

Im a 21M who has been dreaming of buying a Subaru BRZ every since I was a kid.
At the end of April this year I finally saved enough money to buy one and found the exact colour with good enough kms and a clean title on AutoTrader.
I ended up buying the car and driving it for a week.
My buddy is a mechanic and I asked if he can do a full check on it. He told me there was a small leak from the value gaskets and the spark plugs needs to be changed.
Fast forward one month later and I had to buy a whole new $4200 engine and other small parts here and there.
​
I still haven't gotten it back yet and my parents keep bullying me everyday asking where my new car is and laughing at me in my face.
I am depressed because all my life I have been dreaming of owning this car and I finally got it but not really. My mechanic friend is legit and he is helping me fix this car but it just sucks waiting and then when things look like I'm going to get it this week, some other issues happens.
So much time and money spent and I can't even enjoy it.
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Why me? Why did this have to happen to me

Hi everybody, I was wondering if someone here has been trough this issue I know this might sound like the crank sensor or cam, but I already swap those.
BMW 328i 19998 M52 E36
So my main issue Started yesterday, I drive the car yesterday without issues, then I got home, and my passenger window fall of from the rail, so I removed the door panel and swapped the elevator, I noticed that the speakers wasn’t plugged so I plug them and mounted everything back, then decided to drive the car and wouldn’t even start, just crank, took it like 10 times and then I drive it without any issues, turn the car off after a 10 min drive and this time it wouldn’t start 🥲 I swapped the sensors and the same issue, then I check my coils and no spark still, I decided to remove the coil from the conector and there is no signal, no ground, not even a positive signal, I removed the harness and it’s dead, it’s not receiving nothing, checked my fuses and everything it’s good, any idea or someone has been troubleshooting issues like this?

• 1990 Mercedes Benz 300 SE
• 200k miles
• Automatic transmission

So recently my dad's car began to have electrical issues. One of the locks stopped working, then all of the electrical stopped working when the car was off. Seatbelt sign would flash for no reason.
Randomly it died on him while driving home. First the ABS light came on and it started driving roughly. Then shortly after, the SRS light came on and the car stalled. A boost worked the first time, but then the same lights + stall happened after a couple minutes. My initial thoughts were a blown fuse.
Towed it to a mechanic and he repaired the following:
- Cap and rotor
- Spark plugs
- Ignition wires
- One other thing I'm forgetting
w/ 3 hours labor, the total was just over $1000 CAD. He suggested we get a new battery and clean the air filter system. Supposedly the car is fixed and running fine, although we haven't gone to pick it up yet.
Does it make sense that all of those were needed? Do mechanics sometimes play it safe and fix multiple suspected issues without knowing what the actual cause was? Should we feel scammed and fight it?
Reviews on google say this shop has 4.4 stars.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 2009 JK 4-door automatic with brand new 3.8 l V6 that was installed less than 6 months ago. Prior to that installation I was having trouble with some error codes and some rough idling. Jeep would often die at stop signs or red lights or if it was in park and just idled too long. Sometimes the RPMs are low other times the RPMs are too high. Obviously when the RPMs were too high the engine wouldn't stall, but it also doesn't run nicely. Every once in a while it seems like the accelerator isn't working at all. When it first started I cleaned the throttle body and then eventually I got to the point where I replaced the throttle body. I thought the problem was solved. Obviously that was not the case because less than a month later it started throwing the error codes again both the lightning bolt and the traction symbol. It will drive fine anywhere from 2 minutes to 30 minutes and then the engine very noticeably starts to run rough and the lights will come on and at that point I have to turn my engine off and restart it. On restart it appears to be fine until it's not. It seems to be pretty random it doesn't matter whether I'm using the accelerator or not or not.
I do have quite a few aftermarket products installed. In 2012 I installed a RIPP Mods vortex supercharger and then a few years later I installed long tube headers and an enhanced exhaust. Engine kept throwing air codes cuz it didn't like the O2 sensors with the long tube headers so we just keep ignoring that particular error. Maybe that is a mistake? We replaced them twice and last time the mechanic who did the work told us we were replacing them for no reason. We also have aftermarket spark plugs.
Because it has a supercharger and long tube headers We have a custom tune that was built for us by RIPP Mods... Every time we've made a change the Jeep we verify that the tune gets adjusted to account for any modifications. After I replaced the throttle body the first time, It occurred to me that maybe my computer had dropped the tune for my battery died a few months prior, so I reloaded our custom tune and that appeared to fix it and I yet again congratulated myself on fixing the problem. however just like a bad penny this problem has persisted even after I put a new engine in it. I didn't put a new engine in due to this issue. I put a new engine in because I threw a rod that put a big hole in my oil pan doing some stupid s*** out on a trail.
Since it's been almost 2 years since I replaced the throttle body I went ahead and pulled it today to check it for cleanliness and to see if it appeared like something was burnt out or broken, but everything looks fine. I know that's not necessarily an indication that there isn't some kind of problem. I'm debating on whether or not I should try replacing the throttle body again assuming that maybe the throttle body I bought was defective from the factory. I tried the tricks regarding "reprogramming the idle air control sensor" which did not work at all. I can't tell you how frustrating it is to have a brand new engine and for my Jeep to run like s***.
At this point the only thing I can think of is that there's a problem with my computer and that it might need replaced however I would assume if there was a problem with my computer that I would have other symptoms of that. I ran across some things on the web that stated that bad grounds can sometimes cause problems like this I don't know if there's any truth to that?
I did find one of my hoses for my supercharger disconnected today. And I thought perhaps that was causing the problems but I got that fixed and the supercharger sounds way better however the Jeep is still throwing codes and running rough.
I am not a mechanic I'm barely a hobby mechanic.... I can replace the tire and change my own oil and apparently I've gotten good at pulling a throttle body and cleaning it but that's about as knowledgeable as I am regarding how to fix things in an engine.
Honestly I'm not sure where to go from here and I'm hoping you guys can give me some good ideas. I did manage to take a video if that helps...
https://youtu.be/rXgGPk0Io5s

Hi all,
I've been taking all 3 of my cars to a local mechanic here in Phoenix, AZ for years... and now I feel he is just testing the waters with what I'm willing to pay (and maybe trying to rip me off)... it seems at least once a year or so I'm having to drop 1k per car on something... and all of our cars are 2016 (with just barely over 100k mi).
So trying to take my wifes 2016 Kia Sorento in... it's due for it's 100k maintenance (which I understand requires the spark plugs to get replaced according to the manual among other things).
About a month ago he quoted me about $650 for the 100k maintenance and now he's telling me it'll be about $900 for the 100k maintenance... he also told me there was an oil pan leak (which he's charging about $300 for)... btw I'm not seeing any oil in my driveway even with the skid plate removed (which they just took off without warning).
I understand with Sorentos some of the plugs are under the engine and require more work... am I being paranoid or is he trying to rip me off.
I've done oil/filter changes on several cars as well as replaced coolant reservoirs, spark plugs, coil packs, batteries, etc... so I wouldn't say I'm super novice but I wouldn't label myself anything more than a novice either... but lately I just don't have the time to do my own work.
Opinions? Look around or continue w my local mechanic?